Gacaca Courts

---Could be unsuitable for children---


On our way to the market, Clementine* tells me to stop on our way by some groups of people sitting under trees; turns out it was the Gacaca (ga-cha-cha) courts hearing the accused killers from the 1994 Genocide and the charges against them. 5 Judges sat on a wooden bench, people were crowded around under the tree, and one person was standing, defending his/her case. Clementine translated for me: one woman--dressed in regular, daily clothing--was accused of entering a home with her group of killers and killing an elderly mother laying on a mattress. One of the victim's daughters--who is now about 40 years old--was filing the complaint. After hearing both sides the panel of five judges (ranging in age from 25 to 40) said that since the mother's mattress is missing, the one who killed her must have taken it. The daughter was literally trying to kill the accused with her eyes and body language as the accused woman walked to her spot on the grass.

Then they moved on: a man (who wasn't present, so was represented by his 31 year old daughter) was charged with violent crimes during the War (Genocide): having people take all of their things to his house then back at their home killing them all; or brutally murdering masses of people without any problem. The victim (their representative) first had the accused (well, his representative) move to the other side of the clearing, claiming that she can't be near violent people like these unforgiving types. Then she asked the accused's daughter (treating her as if SHE were the one who committed crimes, not her father) if her father was a killer. She said, "Not that I know of. But since all of these people say he is, maybe he is." Then everyone in the crowd was saying things like, "You were 16 during the war, you should know!" A woman testified that she saw the man killing; the head judge announced that if anyone will testify that this woman is lying, than the charge would be dismissed. No one did, showing the people's agreement that he killed.

Then Clementine told me about her mother's village: all of them were slaughtered. Her grandfather was a very old man with a business; he was a tenacious fighter when the genocidaires (those that committed genocidal acts during the war) attacked the village, and he lead the people in the resistance. Finally the attackers got tired and it was over. THEN they beheaded him, posting his head on a stick on top of his shop mocking, "Lead your people now old man!" But, Clementine claims its ok, that they are so used to stories like this, like these trials. But she'll always remember her grandfather's visits to them (in the Refugee Camp) in Congo as a child, bringing them milk and laughing.

Then she decided these trials were boring, so we left and I heard more about the Gacaca: those that testify against someone usually are killed; its best to keep your mouth shut. Reconciliation is possible, but only when the accused ask for forgiveness, but if they claim nothing is wrong, keep their noses up, or still treat the others like dirt, then they can't reconcile. For some, the trials are like a joke: one may accuse another who will claim, "You accuse me?! While I was cutting off an arm, you were cutting off a leg!" And so friends go to jail together; people used to lie, give false testimony, etc. but now its getting better, more serious.

This morning we also found out where we will be living after training has ended! We found out very late, since there is only 1 week left in our training. I'll be living in the district called Burera, at an elevation of 2,500-3,000 meters (like 8,000-9,800 feet!) where its cold, rainy, and only a 30 minute walk from the Ugandan border. The small town is all on top of a hill, so kind of compacted and close. The high school I'll teach at was founded by parents in 1987 and was changed to public school in 1995. The school secretary said I can live with her and her family in their compound, and I'll have my own little guest house on the side. Water is only a five minute walk, no electricity (the school has solar panels so I can charge my phone), and its about 500 meters from the school. The local health center is run by a Spanish nun whose first response to inquiries about Peace Corps Volunteers in the area was that a volunteer wouldn't last up there. Well, we'll see about that.

*All names are changed to protect people's privacy.