Being on National News

Swear in went well: Kevin and I spoke in Kinyarwanda, Julie Ann spoke in French, and Katy spoke in English. Katy and I wore umushananas (oo-moo-SHA-nah-nah) for our speeches, they're native clothing that are basically a bunchy skirt worn really high on the waist, and a tank top because the top is this toga-style, tied on one shoulder, rectangular fabric draped over the body.


After our little ceremony, speeches, and thanking everyone for our training, two reporters asked to interview me for the Rwandan news! One was from the newspaper and we were in the next day's news. And the other--the TV crew-- asked me questions, had me speaking English and Kinyarwanda, and asked me some questions about training and such. The next day we were on the TV! I was out with my friend Alphonsine visiting her family when we got some phone calls from people congratulating us on on our Kinyarwanda skills on TV... kind of embarrassing that the whole country has seen/heard me speaking their language after only 10 weeks of lessons, but totally cool too! The family we were with has a TV, but no cable so we couldn't watch the news and see me flapping my gums.




Afterwards, we were in Kigali and I stayed with Charissa to meet the family of the roommate of her friend in Colorado. They lived in America for 21 years, came back to Rwanda, he is like the diretor of an international ONG in Rwanda, and she runs an orphanage. Their three kids live in the US: one in Cali, one in Colorado, and one in Pennsylvania (I think) the Californian is in town and we got to meet him! and... we speak better kinyarwanda than him! Its sooooo weird! Like the whole night, the parents were totally flabbergasted at the Kinyarwanda we speak! It was really funnny to watch her crack up at our language skills and her disbelief that these two white girls can speak her language and she understands it.

When we got back to our training site, we literally stepped off the bus when we were greeted by a lady walking by who said she saw me on TV and congratulated us on our Kinyarwanda skills. Every once in a while, while traveling, or going around town people will say that they saw us on TV.

As if being the "muzungu" (white people) wasn't enough reason to stare at us, now we're TV stars! ;)

Gacaca Courts

---Could be unsuitable for children---


On our way to the market, Clementine* tells me to stop on our way by some groups of people sitting under trees; turns out it was the Gacaca (ga-cha-cha) courts hearing the accused killers from the 1994 Genocide and the charges against them. 5 Judges sat on a wooden bench, people were crowded around under the tree, and one person was standing, defending his/her case. Clementine translated for me: one woman--dressed in regular, daily clothing--was accused of entering a home with her group of killers and killing an elderly mother laying on a mattress. One of the victim's daughters--who is now about 40 years old--was filing the complaint. After hearing both sides the panel of five judges (ranging in age from 25 to 40) said that since the mother's mattress is missing, the one who killed her must have taken it. The daughter was literally trying to kill the accused with her eyes and body language as the accused woman walked to her spot on the grass.

Then they moved on: a man (who wasn't present, so was represented by his 31 year old daughter) was charged with violent crimes during the War (Genocide): having people take all of their things to his house then back at their home killing them all; or brutally murdering masses of people without any problem. The victim (their representative) first had the accused (well, his representative) move to the other side of the clearing, claiming that she can't be near violent people like these unforgiving types. Then she asked the accused's daughter (treating her as if SHE were the one who committed crimes, not her father) if her father was a killer. She said, "Not that I know of. But since all of these people say he is, maybe he is." Then everyone in the crowd was saying things like, "You were 16 during the war, you should know!" A woman testified that she saw the man killing; the head judge announced that if anyone will testify that this woman is lying, than the charge would be dismissed. No one did, showing the people's agreement that he killed.

Then Clementine told me about her mother's village: all of them were slaughtered. Her grandfather was a very old man with a business; he was a tenacious fighter when the genocidaires (those that committed genocidal acts during the war) attacked the village, and he lead the people in the resistance. Finally the attackers got tired and it was over. THEN they beheaded him, posting his head on a stick on top of his shop mocking, "Lead your people now old man!" But, Clementine claims its ok, that they are so used to stories like this, like these trials. But she'll always remember her grandfather's visits to them (in the Refugee Camp) in Congo as a child, bringing them milk and laughing.

Then she decided these trials were boring, so we left and I heard more about the Gacaca: those that testify against someone usually are killed; its best to keep your mouth shut. Reconciliation is possible, but only when the accused ask for forgiveness, but if they claim nothing is wrong, keep their noses up, or still treat the others like dirt, then they can't reconcile. For some, the trials are like a joke: one may accuse another who will claim, "You accuse me?! While I was cutting off an arm, you were cutting off a leg!" And so friends go to jail together; people used to lie, give false testimony, etc. but now its getting better, more serious.

This morning we also found out where we will be living after training has ended! We found out very late, since there is only 1 week left in our training. I'll be living in the district called Burera, at an elevation of 2,500-3,000 meters (like 8,000-9,800 feet!) where its cold, rainy, and only a 30 minute walk from the Ugandan border. The small town is all on top of a hill, so kind of compacted and close. The high school I'll teach at was founded by parents in 1987 and was changed to public school in 1995. The school secretary said I can live with her and her family in their compound, and I'll have my own little guest house on the side. Water is only a five minute walk, no electricity (the school has solar panels so I can charge my phone), and its about 500 meters from the school. The local health center is run by a Spanish nun whose first response to inquiries about Peace Corps Volunteers in the area was that a volunteer wouldn't last up there. Well, we'll see about that.

*All names are changed to protect people's privacy.

Swearing- In in Kigali

I never seem to realize how quickly time is going by, you know? We're going to swear in as official volunteers (well, those of us that transferred from Mauritania are already volunteers, but we're still going to be there and do it) on the 17th or 18 th of December. Just like in Mauritania we have a speech in the local language and just like in Mauritania, I get to be the speaker! We're having one in Kinyarwanda, English, and French, so I'm doing the kinyarwanda one along with my friend Kevin, and even wearing traditional Rwandan clothing! I'm really happy. I've really enjoyed being here: these 3 months of training have been incredible! My teachers are mostly between 25 and 30 years old, college educated locals, and we have so much fun together! One thing Africa definitely has is laughter, and we laugh SO MUCH! I love it!

Its really cool that Rwanda has made so much progress in the last 15 years socially, politically, and in education: most people speak a bit of English, good French, and many speak fluent Swahili. In any case its great because we can bond in ways that I wasn't able to do in Mauritania for a long time (until I had a good handle on the language) : with the English and French we understand each other, make jokes, and learn so much about each other's cultures. It also helps A TON that I already lived in Africa for so long: I can understand the way they think, see things, do things, their sense of humor, real limitations, social heirarchies, and the conservatism. One of their favorite things to say as a compliment to an American is " You're a REAL Rwandan!" meaning that you really understand the culture and have thoroughly integrated in to their way of life here. Its weird because I hear that pretty often. (Do I sound like a jerk? I don't mean to, just to share the truth of the matter ;)

In America there is this growing sense of "what is my identity" as people loose touch with thier origins, heritage, and traditions as generations of people stay in America. And its totally like that here, too: I'm the muzungu aka white person(moo-zoon-goo), but well adapted; one of the latinas in the group, but not fully (we're not born in South or Central America, but know some of the traditions as our own), even the fact that I've already seved a year in Africa as a PCV and am now demoted (?), well, considered a PCT (peace corps trainee instead of volunteer). Then looking at all the women my age here: married, with children. So weird! but now so are some of my friends in America! And my Grandmas are like " Oh, Michele, when are you going to have babies?!" and its like, "Woah! What's going on here?!!!" Getting older is starting to feel like the world is turning upside and too fast!

It turns out that we transfers are totally considered second year volunteers and can finish our service in December 2010/ January 2011. I'll be home before you know it! I think of you guys all the time and wish I had better internet service to at least connect to you once in a while. As it is we have to go to internet cafes with the slowest dial up connection ever. And its either spend my daily 1,000 amafaranga (about $2) on clothes, special foods, or internet.... sorry guys! (Everyone dresses as fashionably as possible here.. I have to keep up with the lastest fashions that arrive from the European/American good will!) I would say to please call me, because I wold LOVE to talk to you! But... I lost my phone! They cost about 15,000 FR for a cheap Nokia.... so I'll have to save up for a bit and I'll let you know when I buy a replacement ;)